Let’s Make This Dreamy Granny Square Crochet Bandana Together

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Okay, I need to tell you about this crochet bandana pattern, because it’s easily one of my favorite granny-square projects to come out of a hook lately. It’s not your average headscarf — it’s built from one granny square and two granny triangles, stitched together into a single triangular shape, then trimmed with the prettiest little lace edge and finished with two long crocheted ties. If you’ve ever typed “free crochet bandana pattern” into a search bar hoping for something with a little more personality than a plain triangle, this is it.

Here’s the good news: every stitch in this pattern is one you already know how to make. Chain, slip stitch, single crochet, double crochet, and a bit of treble crochet — that’s genuinely it. What makes it feel more advanced than your average easy crochet bandana is just the sheer number of rounds and rows, plus a few techniques (front-loop-only joins, back-loop-only straps, and one sneaky “rotate instead of turn” moment) that are easy once you’ve seen them written out clearly. That’s exactly what I’m doing for you here — walking through the whole thing, round by round, row by row, so you’re never left guessing.

Beginner Goal

Let’s be honest with each other: this isn’t the pattern I’d hand a total beginner as their very first project. But if you’ve ever made a traditional granny square before — even just one — you already have everything you need to make this bandana beautifully. It’s a lovely next step up from a beginner crochet bandana.

Here’s what you’ll get better at along the way:

Building a granny square from the center out, corners and all
Working a granny triangle in turned rows (same logic as the square, just back and forth instead of in the round)
Joining finished pieces together with slip stitches through specific loops, for an almost invisible seam
Reading chain-space instructions, where you crochet into a gap instead of a stitch
Working in the back loop only for a subtly ribbed, corded texture
A little treble crochet, which shows up at the triangle points and along the top edge

None of that is hard on its own. The real skill this pattern builds is patience and counting — staying organized across a lot of rounds. Go slow, and you’ll be so glad you stuck with it.

What You’ll Need

Yarn

I made mine in a medium weight yarn — think worsted or aran weight, whatever you’ve got on hand in that category — specifically a cotton-viscose-linen blend from Sandnes Garn (Line, colorway 9004). It comes in 50 g / 1.76 oz skeins with 110 m / 120 yd each, and it’s a lovely 53% cotton, 33% viscose, 14% linen blend that gives the lace just the right amount of drape.

All told, the bandana took about 44 g / 1.55 oz of yarn — the pattern doesn’t spell out a yardage number, but doing the math off the skein’s stated length, that’s roughly 95–100 m / 105–110 yd. Translation: one skein will do it, with a bit to spare. If you’re swapping in a different yarn, stick to a similar weight with some plant fiber in the mix, and maybe grab a touch extra just in case your gauge runs a little looser than mine.

Hook

4 mm (US G-6)

Notions

Yarn or tapestry needle
Scissors
Measuring tape

Stitches Used (US Terms)

Here’s your cheat sheet before we start (all US terms):

ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet
ch-sp – chain space (a gap made by a chain — you’ll crochet right into that open space instead of a stitch)
sk st – skipped stitch
blo – back loop only (just the back strand of the stitch, leaving the front one alone — it’s what gives the straps their little corded look)

Two more things worth knowing even though they’re not on the official abbreviations list: you’ll start both the square and the triangles with a magic ring (there’s a chain-loop alternative if magic rings aren’t your favorite), and during assembly you’ll work into the “front loop” of one piece — just the loop closest to you as you look at your stitches.

Finished Measurements

This is a one-size pattern. Flat, after blocking, you’re looking at:

Height: 27.5 cm / 10.6 in
Width: 53 cm / 20.9 in
Each strap: 36 cm / 14.2 in

Before You Begin

Quick gauge check: you want 16 dc and 9 rows to equal 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in in plain double crochet. As a backup check, one finished granny square (through Round 7) should measure about 14.5 x 14.5 cm / 5.5 x 5.5 in. Too big or too small? Try a different hook before you commit to the whole project — sizing up loosens things, sizing down tightens them.

And here’s the game plan, so you know what’s coming:

Crochet the granny square, in the round.
Crochet two matching granny triangles, in turned rows.
Slip-stitch the square and both triangles together into one piece.
Add a three-row lace top edge.
Add the bottom edge plus two long chained ties, all in one go.
Weave in your ends and block.

Everything here is written in US crochet terms — same double crochet you’d find in any US pattern, not the taller UK “treble.”

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: The Granny Square

Round 1: Start with a magic ring — chain 3 (that’s your first dc), then pack in 15 more double crochets for 16 total. Slip stitch into the top of that starting chain-3 to close, then chain 4 to launch Round 2.

Not a magic-ring person? No judgment — make a slip knot, chain 4, and slip stitch into that very first chain to join it into a loop. Work Round 1 into that little ring instead.

Round 2: That chain-4 is doing double duty as a dc plus a chain-1 space. Double crochet into the next stitch, chain 1, and keep that combo going all the way around — you’ll land on 16 dc-and-chain-1 pairs. Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of your starting chain-4 to join, then chain 3.

Round 3: Two double crochets into the next chain-1 space, one double crochet into the next stitch, and repeat that all the way around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of your chain-3, then chain 6.

Round 4: That chain-6 is your first corner space. Skip 2 stitches, single crochet into the next one, chain 3 — and do that whole sequence three more times to finish out the side. For the corner: chain 6, skip 2, single crochet. Work all four sides and corners this way, join into that very first corner space, and chain 3.

Round 5: Chain 3 for your first dc, then 4 more double crochets, a chain-3, and 5 more double crochets, all crammed into that same corner space — this is the shell that gives the square its point. Single crochet into the next space (you’re working under last round’s chain-3 here). Seven double crochets into the following space, single crochet into the one after. Repeat that corner shell and side pattern all the way around. Join to your chain-3, then chain 8.

Round 6: Your chain-8 counts as a dc plus a chain-5 space. At the corner: single crochet, chain 3, single crochet, chain 5. Skip 5 stitches, double crochet into the single crochet from Round 5, chain 3. Single crochet into the 4th stitch of that 7-dc group. Chain 3, skip 3 double crochets, double crochet into the sc from Round 5, chain 5. Repeat the corner, and keep this rhythm going all the way around, wrapping up with a single crochet into the 4th stitch of your last 7-dc group, then chain 3. Join into the 3rd chain of your chain-8, slip stitch into the next space, chain 3.

Round 7: Chain 3, then 4 more double crochets into that same space (5 dc total). Corner: 3 dc, chain 3, 3 dc. Five double crochets into the next space, 3 double crochets into each of the next two spaces, 5 double crochets into the space after. Repeat the corner at the next one, and keep going all the way around. Join to your chain-3 and cut the yarn, leaving about a 10 cm / 4 in tail to weave in later.

(Suggested photo: your finished granny square, all seven rounds done — this is such a satisfying one to snap.)

And that’s your granny square, done!

Part 2: The Granny Triangles (You’ll Need Two!)

Same stitches as the square, just worked back and forth in rows instead of in the round. Make these one right after the other so you don’t have to re-learn the pattern twice.

Row 1: Magic ring, chain 3 (first dc), 7 more double crochets into the ring for 8 total. Close it up, chain 4, turn.

Quick tip: turn your work the same direction every single row. It’s a small habit that makes a big difference in how neat your edge looks.

Row 2: That chain-4 is a dc plus a chain-1. Double crochet into the next stitch, chain 1, repeat across until you’ve got 8 dc-and-chain-1 groups. Chain 3, turn.

Row 3: Two double crochets into the next chain-1 space, one double crochet into the next stitch, alternating across the row. Chain 6, turn.

Row 4: Skip 2 stitches, single crochet, then repeat “chain 3, skip 2, single crochet” two more times. Chain 3, skip 1 stitch, and work single crochet, chain 6, single crochet all into that top center stitch — that’s your triangle’s peak forming. Chain 3, skip 1, single crochet, then mirror the first half: “chain 3, skip 2, single crochet” two more times. Finish with chain 6, skip 2, and slip stitch into the start of last row’s turning chain. Chain 4, turn.

Row 5: Chain 4 (first tr), 1 more treble crochet plus 4 double crochets into that same space. Single crochet into the next space. Seven double crochets into the following space, single crochet into the next. Into the top space: 3 dc, chain 3, 3 dc — shaping that pretty little peak. Single crochet, then mirror the whole thing down the second half. Last space gets 4 dc and 2 tr. Chain 8, turn.

Row 6: Skip 2, single crochet into the 3rd stitch. Chain 3, skip 3, double crochet into the sc from Row 5. Chain 3, skip 3, single crochet into the 4th stitch of the 7-dc group. Chain 3, skip 3, double crochet into the sc from Row 5, chain 5. Top space: single crochet, chain 3, single crochet, chain 5. Mirror it down the other side, ending with a single crochet into the 3rd stitch. Chain 5, then one double crochet into the last space, right before Row 5’s turning chains. Chain 4, turn.

Row 7: Chain 4 (first tr), 1 more treble crochet plus 4 double crochets into the same space. Four double crochets into the next space, 3 double crochets into each of the next two spaces, 5 double crochets into the following space. Top space: 3 dc, chain 4, 3 dc. Mirror it down the second half. Last space: 4 dc, 2 tr. Cut your yarn, leaving about a 10 cm / 4 in tail.

(Suggested photo: the finished triangle, all seven rows done, next to your growing pile of pieces.)

Now do the whole thing again for triangle number two — same steps, start to finish.

Part 3: A Quick Weave-In Break

Before you join anything, take a minute to weave in every loose tail on the square and both triangles. Needle each one through a few nearby stitches, changing direction as you go, so it’s locked in place. Trust me, it’s so much easier to do this now than after everything’s stitched together.

Part 4: Putting It All Together

This is where your three separate pieces become one bandana, joined with slip stitches through specific loops for a seam that basically disappears. Here’s the order:

Knot your yarn into the top space of a triangle, then slip stitch into that space to anchor it.
Lay the square against the triangle, right sides facing each other.
Slip stitch along the edge — front loop of the square, back loop of the triangle — all the way to the last stitch.
Land your last slip stitch in the square’s corner space, matching up with the last stitch before the triangle’s corner space.
Bring in your second triangle, positioning it against the other side of the square the same way, right sides together.
Slip stitch the two triangles’ corner spaces together.
Continue along the square’s remaining side, same as before — front loop of square, back loop of triangle.
Slip stitch into the corner space, chain 1, cut your yarn, leave a 10 cm / 4 in tail.

That front-loop/back-loop combo is the trick that makes this seam look so clean — worth slowing down for.

(Suggested photo: the assembled piece, right side up, before you start the lace edge.)

Part 5: The Top Edge

Three rows, worked right onto your assembled piece, and this is what gives the top of the bandana all that scalloped lace charm.

Row 1: Right side facing you, knot in at the right corner space. Chain 4 (first tr), one more treble crochet into that space. Double crochet across until you hit the seam where a triangle meets the square — 2 dc into the triangle’s top space, 2 dc into the square’s corner space. Keep double crocheting across until you reach the very top point of the bandana: 2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc into that space. Mirror everything down the other side. Last stitch gets 2 treble crochets. Chain 8, turn.

Row 2: Skip 2, single crochet. Repeat “chain 5, skip 2, single crochet” 16 times, chain 5. Top space: single crochet, chain 4, single crochet, chain 5. Mirror it — skip 2, single crochet, “chain 5, skip 2, single crochet” 16 times, chain 5. Finish with one double crochet in the last stitch. Chain 4, turn.

Row 3: Chain 4 (first tr), 1 more treble crochet plus 5 double crochets into that space. Single crochet into the next space. Repeat “5 dc into the next space, single crochet into the one after” across until the top space, then 3 dc, chain 3, 3 dc there. Mirror it down the second half. Last space: 5 dc, 2 tr.

Chain 1 and rotate — don’t turn this time, just spin your work in place so the right side stays facing you and you can flow straight into the bottom edge without a break.

Part 6: The Bottom Edge and Those Gorgeous Ties

Single crochet plus back-loop-only slip stitches here, finishing up with two long chained ties.

Without turning: 3 single crochets into the first space (working under the last row). Three single crochets into each of the next 6 spaces. Two single crochets into each of the next 3 spaces. One single crochet into the triangle’s magic-ring center. Two single crochets into each of the next 3 spaces, 3 single crochets into each of the next 4 spaces. At the point where a triangle meets the square, work 2 double crochets. Repeat the whole thing down the second side.

First strap: at the end of the row, chain 66. Slip stitch through the back loop only into the 2nd chain from your hook, then keep slip stitching in the back loop only down the rest of the chain.

Once the strap’s done, keep going along the bottom edge — single crochet through both loops this time, all the way to the end.

Second strap: chain another 66. Back loop only again, starting from the 2nd chain from the hook, all the way down.

Slip stitch into that very first single crochet on this row to close it up. Cut your yarn, leave a 10 cm / 4 in tail.

That back-loop-only detail is what gives the ties their little ribbed, corded look — such a nice finishing touch.

(Suggested photo: a close-up of one finished strap, showing off that ribbed texture.)

Helpful Tips

Stitch markers are your best friend on Rounds 4–7 of the square — clip one into every corner space so you never lose track mid-round.
On Round 4 especially, double-check you’ve finished the full side sequence before you turn a corner. Way easier to fix now than three rounds later.
Swatch first! Since this pattern has exact finished measurements, a slightly-off gauge really does add up.
Leave yourself plenty of working yarn before you start a strap — that 66-chain-plus-slip-stitch-row combo goes fast, and you don’t want to run out halfway.
Not into magic rings? The chain-4-and-join trick from Round 1 of the square works just as well for the triangles, too.
44 g out of a 50 g skein means one skein is plenty for this whole project, with a little cushion left over.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Miscounting chain spaces, especially around Rounds 5–6 and the top-edge rows — they all stack up several similar-looking spaces in a row.
Forgetting the starting chain counts as your first stitch (easy to accidentally add an extra one right there).
Confusing “turn” with “rotate” — that one spot in Top Edge Row 3 is the only time you rotate instead of turn, and mixing it up flips your bottom edge onto the wrong side.
Working through both loops when the pattern wants back loop only — this really shows on the straps.
Swapping which piece gets the front loop vs. the back loop during assembly — it’ll still join, just not as cleanly.
Cutting your tails too short to comfortably weave in later.

Finishing

Last step before blocking: chase down every remaining yarn tail and weave it in properly, running it through a few stitches in a couple different directions so it’s locked in for good.

Blocking

Don’t skip this part — it makes a genuinely huge difference on a lacy piece like this one. Wash or steam according to your yarn’s care label, pin it out to 27.5 cm / 10.6 in tall by 53 cm / 20.9 in wide, and let it dry all the way before you unpin.

(Suggested photo: the finished, blocked bandana — laid flat or styled on a head form, whatever shows off the lace best.)

Blocking relaxes your tension, opens up all those pretty chain spaces, and gives the whole thing a much more polished finish.

Final Thoughts

I love how this pattern takes three separate little pieces — a square, two triangles — and turns them into one cohesive, lacy whole. It’s not a fast project, but it’s such a satisfying one, and every round you finish feels like real progress. Take it slow, lean on stitch markers when you need to, and you’ll end up with a bandana that looks a whole lot more advanced than it actually was to make.

If you love how this one turns out, it’s a great pattern to riff on — a bold solid color for something graphic, or a variegated yarn to really show off all that lace texture.

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