A Boho Crochet Bandana Pattern for Slow, Cozy Afternoons

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There’s a particular kind of afternoon this crochet bandana pattern was made for — the kind with good light, a cup of something warm nearby, and nowhere in particular to be. Built from a single granny square and two granny triangles, joined into one soft, triangular shape and finished with a wave of open lace and long ties, this bandana has that unmistakable handmade, slightly bohemian feel. It’s the kind of piece that looks equally at home tied over loose waves at a summer market or knotted at the nape of your neck on a quiet Sunday.

Every stitch here is simple and familiar — chain, slip stitch, single crochet, double crochet, a little treble crochet for height. What takes this beyond your average easy crochet bandana isn’t complexity, it’s patience: round after round of lace slowly taking shape, until suddenly you’re holding something that looks like it came from a vintage pattern book. Put on something you love to listen to, and let’s get started.

Beginner Goal

This is a lovely project for the crafter who’s already spent an afternoon or two with a traditional granny square and is ready for something with a bit more atmosphere. If that’s you, settle in — you have everything you need.

Along the way, you’ll spend time with:

Building a granny square outward from its center, corners unfurling as you go
Shaping a granny triangle in gentle, turned rows
Joining pieces together with slip stitches worked through soft, specific loops, for a seam you’ll barely notice
Crocheting into open chain spaces rather than stitches — the technique behind so much beautiful lace
Working in the back loop only, for a subtle corded texture along the ties
A touch of treble crochet at the pattern’s high points

None of it is difficult, exactly — it just asks you to slow down. This isn’t a race-to-the-finish pattern. It’s a settle-in, watch-it-grow kind of project.

What You’ll Need

Yarn

The original was made in a medium weight yarn — the soft, worsted-adjacent category most cotton blends fall into — specifically a cotton-viscose-linen blend from Sandnes Garn (Line, colorway 9004). Each skein is 50 g / 1.76 oz and holds 110 m / 120 yd, in a warm 53% cotton, 33% viscose, 14% linen blend that gives the finished lace a soft, natural drape.

The whole bandana used about 44 g / 1.55 oz of yarn. The pattern doesn’t state a yardage figure outright, but working from the skein’s numbers, that comes to roughly 95–100 m / 105–110 yd — one skein, with a little left to spare. If you’re reaching for something else in your stash, look for a similar weight with some plant fiber in the mix; it’s part of what gives this piece its relaxed, textural drape. A little extra yarn never hurts, especially if your tension tends to run soft.

Hook

4 mm (US G-6)

Notions

Yarn or tapestry needle
Scissors
Measuring tape

Stitches Used (US Terms)

ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet
ch-sp – chain space (the open air pocket a chain leaves behind — you’ll crochet right into that space)
sk st – skipped stitch
blo – back loop only (just the back strand of the stitch, which leaves a soft little ridge behind)

A couple more things worth knowing: the magic ring, an adjustable loop that opens both the square and each triangle (with a chain-loop alternative if you’d rather skip it), and the front loop, the loop nearest you, which comes up during assembly.

Finished Measurements

One size. Measured flat, once blocked:

Height: 27.5 cm / 10.6 in
Width: 53 cm / 20.9 in
Strap length: 36 cm / 14.2 in, each tie

Before You Begin

Before you settle in, take a moment to check your gauge — 16 double crochets and 9 rows should measure 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in in plain double crochet. As a second check, one finished granny square (through Round 7) should measure about 14.5 x 14.5 cm / 5.5 x 5.5 in. If yours runs noticeably different, try a different hook before you get too far in.

Here’s the shape of the journey ahead:

One granny square, worked in the round.
Two matching granny triangles, worked in gentle rows.
Joined together into a single triangular piece.
A lace top edge, worked in three rows.
A bottom edge and two long ties, all in one continuous stretch.
Ends woven in, and a good, careful block.

Everything’s written in US crochet terms — this double crochet is the same one you’ll find in most US pattern books, not the taller “treble” of UK terminology.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: The Granny Square

Round 1: Settle into a magic ring. Chain 3 (this quietly counts as your first double crochet), then work 15 more double crochets into the ring, for 16 stitches total. Close the round with a slip stitch into the top of that starting chain-3, then chain 4 to move into Round 2.

If a magic ring isn’t your favorite way to begin, a slip knot works just as well — chain 4, join it into a loop with a slip stitch into the first chain, and work Round 1 into that ring instead.

Round 2: That chain-4 is standing in for a double crochet plus a chain-1 space. Work a double crochet into the next stitch, then chain 1, letting that little rhythm carry you all the way around — you’ll land on 16 double crochet-and-chain-1 pairs. Join with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain of your starting chain-4, then chain 3.

Round 3: Work 2 double crochets into the next chain-1 space, then 1 double crochet into the next stitch, and let that pattern repeat around the whole circle. Join with a slip stitch to the top of your beginning chain-3, then chain 6.

Round 4: That chain-6 opens up your first corner space. Skip 2 stitches, single crochet into the next one, chain 3 — and repeat that gentle rhythm three more times to finish the side. At the corner: chain 6, skip 2, single crochet. Work your way around all four sides and corners this way, then join into that very first corner space and chain 3.

Round 5: Chain 3 for your first double crochet, then 4 more double crochets, a chain-3, and 5 more double crochets, all nestled into that same corner space — this little shell is what gives the square its soft points. Single crochet into the next space, working under the chain-3 left from Round 4. Seven double crochets into the following space, then a single crochet into the one after. Let this corner-and-side pattern carry you around the whole square. Join to your chain-3, then chain 8.

Round 6: Your chain-8 is doing the work of a double crochet plus a chain-5 space. At the corner: single crochet, chain 3, single crochet, chain 5. Skip 5 stitches, double crochet into the single crochet from Round 5, chain 3. Single crochet into the 4th stitch of that 7-double-crochet group. Chain 3, skip 3 double crochets, double crochet into the single crochet from Round 5, chain 5. Repeat the corner, letting this rhythm carry all the way around, finishing with a single crochet into the 4th stitch of your last 7-dc group, then chain 3. Join into the 3rd chain of your chain-8, slip stitch into the next space, chain 3.

Round 7: Chain 3, then 4 more double crochets into that same space (5 dc, all together). At the corner: 3 dc, chain 3, 3 dc. Five double crochets into the next space, 3 double crochets into each of the next two spaces, 5 double crochets into the space after. Let the corner shell repeat around the whole square. Join, and cut your yarn, leaving a soft 10 cm / 4 in tail to weave in later.

(A quiet moment for a photo here — your finished granny square, all seven rounds, laid out in good light.)

Your granny square is finished — the heart of this whole piece.

Part 2: The Granny Triangles (You’ll Make Two)

Same soft vocabulary of stitches as the square, just carried in turned rows instead of rounds. Make the two triangles one after the other, so the rhythm of the pattern stays with you.

Row 1: Begin with a magic ring. Chain 3 (your first double crochet), then work 7 more double crochets into the ring for 8 total. Close the ring, chain 4, and turn.

A gentle note: turning your work the same direction, row after row, keeps the finished edge lying soft and even.

Row 2: That chain-4 counts as a double crochet plus a chain-1 space. Work a double crochet into the next stitch, chain 1, and let that combination carry you across the row until you have 8 pairs. Chain 3, turn.

Row 3: Two double crochets into the next chain-1 space, one double crochet into the next stitch, alternating this quiet rhythm across the row. Chain 6, turn.

Row 4: Skip 2 stitches, single crochet, then repeat “chain 3, skip 2, single crochet” two more times. Chain 3, skip 1 stitch, and work single crochet, chain 6, single crochet into that top center stitch — the beginning of the triangle’s gentle peak. Chain 3, skip 1, single crochet, then mirror the first half: “chain 3, skip 2, single crochet” two more times. Finish with chain 6, skip 2, and slip stitch into the start of Row 3’s turning chain. Chain 4, turn.

Row 5: Chain 4 (your first treble crochet), 1 more treble crochet plus 4 double crochets into that same space. Single crochet into the next space. Seven double crochets into the following space, single crochet into the next. Into the top space: 3 dc, chain 3, 3 dc, shaping that soft little peak. Single crochet, then let the whole sequence mirror down the second half. Last space: 4 dc, 2 tr. Chain 8, turn.

Row 6: Skip 2, single crochet into the 3rd stitch. Chain 3, skip 3, double crochet into the sc from Row 5. Chain 3, skip 3, single crochet into the 4th stitch of the 7-dc group. Chain 3, skip 3, double crochet into the sc from Row 5, chain 5. Top space: single crochet, chain 3, single crochet, chain 5. Mirror it, ending with a single crochet into the 3rd stitch. Chain 5, one double crochet into the last space, just before Row 5’s turning chains. Chain 4, turn.

Row 7: Chain 4 (your first treble crochet), 1 more treble crochet plus 4 double crochets into that same space. Four double crochets into the next space, 3 double crochets into each of the next two spaces, 5 double crochets into the following space. Top space: 3 dc, chain 4, 3 dc. Mirror down the second half. Last space: 4 dc, 2 tr. Cut your yarn, leaving a 10 cm / 4 in tail.

(A photo here, if you’d like — the finished triangle resting next to your growing pile of pieces.)

Repeat Rows 1 through 7 for a second, matching triangle.

Part 3: A Pause to Weave In Ends

Before any joining begins, take a slow pass through the square and both triangles and weave in every loose tail. Thread each one onto a yarn needle, guide it through a few nearby stitches, shifting direction gently as you go. It’s a small, quiet task, and it’s far easier now than once everything is joined.

Part 4: Bringing the Pieces Together

This is where the three separate motifs become one — joined with slip stitches worked through specific loops, for a seam that all but disappears.

Knot your yarn into the top space of one triangle, then slip stitch into that space to anchor it.
Lay the square against the triangle, right sides facing each other.
Slip stitch along the edge — front loop of the square, back loop of the triangle — all the way to the last stitch.
Let your final slip stitch land in the square’s corner space, matching the last stitch before the triangle’s corner space.
Bring your second triangle in against the square’s other side, right sides together, the same way.
Slip stitch the two triangles’ corner spaces together.
Continue along the square’s remaining side, the same combination — front loop of square, back loop of triangle.
Finish with a slip stitch into the corner space, chain 1, and cut your yarn, leaving a 10 cm / 4 in tail.

There’s something satisfying about this front-loop, back-loop join — it’s quiet, careful work, and the payoff is a seam you’ll barely be able to find later.

(A photo of the assembled piece here, right side up, feels earned.)

Part 5: The Top Edge

Three rows, worked directly onto your assembled piece, and this is where the bandana really starts to feel like lace.

Row 1: With the right side facing you, knot your yarn into the right corner space. Chain 4 (your first treble crochet), then work 1 more treble crochet into that same space. Double crochet across until you reach the seam where a triangle meets the square — 2 dc into the triangle’s top space, 2 dc into the square’s corner space. Keep going with a double crochet into each stitch until you reach the very top point of the bandana, then work 2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc into that space. Mirror it all down the other side. Into the last stitch, 2 treble crochets. Chain 8, turn.

Row 2: Skip 2 stitches, single crochet. Repeat “chain 5, skip 2, single crochet” 16 times, chain 5. Top space: single crochet, chain 4, single crochet, chain 5. Mirror it down the second side, then finish with a double crochet in the very last stitch. Chain 4, turn.

Row 3: Chain 4 (your first treble crochet), 1 more treble crochet plus 5 double crochets into that same space. Single crochet into the next space. Repeat “5 double crochets into the next space, single crochet into the one after” across until the top space, then work 3 dc, chain 3, 3 dc there. Mirror it down the second half, to the last space: 5 dc, 2 tr.

Chain 1, then rotate your work rather than turning it — a quiet spin in place, right side still facing you, ready to move straight into the bottom edge.

Part 6: The Bottom Edge and Two Long Ties

Single crochet and back-loop-only slip stitches here, finishing with two long, soft ties.

Without turning, work 3 single crochets into the first space, under the last row. Continue with 3 single crochets into each of the next 6 spaces, still working under the row below. Two single crochets into each of the following 3 spaces, then a single crochet into the triangle’s magic-ring center. Two single crochets into each of the next 3 spaces, then 3 single crochets into each of the following 4 spaces. Where a triangle meets the square, work 2 double crochets. Let the whole sequence repeat down the second side.

First strap: at the end of the row, chain 66. Working back down that long chain, slip stitch through the back loop only into the 2nd chain from your hook, then continue in the back loop only into each remaining chain, all the way down.

Once the strap is finished, continue along the bottom edge, working single crochet through both loops of each stitch to the end.

Second strap: chain another 66. Back loop only again, starting from the 2nd chain from your hook, the whole length of the chain.

Finish with a slip stitch into the very first single crochet worked on this row. Cut your yarn, leaving a 10 cm / 4 in tail.

(A close-up photo of one strap here — that soft, ribbed texture is worth showing off.)

That back-loop-only detail is a small thing, but it’s what makes the finished ties feel considered rather than just chained on.

Helpful Tips

Keep a stitch marker in every corner space through Rounds 4–7 — it’s a small habit that saves a lot of quiet frustration later.
Before you turn any corner, especially in Round 4, take a breath and confirm you’ve finished the full side sequence.
Don’t skip your gauge swatch — this pattern has exact finished measurements, so it’s worth the extra ten minutes up front.
Measure out plenty of yarn before starting a strap; that long chain and back-loop-only row use more than you’d expect.
If magic rings never quite feel right in your hands, the chain-loop start from Round 1 of the square works beautifully for the triangles too.
One 50 g skein is plenty for this whole project, with a little left to save for another day.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Losing track of chain spaces, especially through Rounds 5–6 of the square and the top-edge rows, where several similar spaces sit close together.
Forgetting that your starting chain always counts as a stitch.
Mixing up “turn” and “rotate” — only the end of Top Edge Row 3 asks for a rotate; everywhere else, you turn.
Working through both loops when the pattern calls for back loop only, which softens the ribbed texture the straps are meant to have.
Reversing the front loop and back loop during assembly — the pieces will still join, just without quite the same clean seam.
Cutting your tails too short to comfortably weave in later.

Finishing

Once everything is joined and both ties are finished, take one more slow pass through the piece and weave in any ends still hanging loose. A few stitches, a gentle change of direction, and each one settles in for good.

Blocking

This is a lace-heavy piece, so blocking is worth the time it takes. Wash or steam according to your yarn’s care label, then pin it out to 27.5 cm / 10.6 in tall and 53 cm / 20.9 in wide, and let it rest and dry completely before unpinning.

(A photo here of the finished, blocked bandana — draped somewhere soft, in good light.)

Blocking settles the tension across every stitch and opens up all that lovely open lace, leaving the whole piece looking calmer and more finished.

Final Thoughts

There’s something quietly lovely about watching three separate pieces — one square, two triangles — slowly become a single, soft piece of lace. This crochet bandana pattern isn’t a quick one, but it’s a rewarding one, the kind of project that fills an afternoon (or several) with something to show for it. Take your time, let the rhythm of the rounds carry you, and you’ll end up with a piece that feels as good to wear as it did to make.

If this one finds a place in your rotation, it’s lovely to revisit — a warm solid shade for something a little more graphic, or a soft variegated yarn to let the lace catch the light.

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